Animal Shelter

Once you bring your new dog home, it’s smart to begin training immediately. But where should you start? What’s the best way to train a puppy? And how do you train an adult dog? There are a number of options for training your new pet. Whether you opt to train your puppy or dog yourself, take classes or hire a private trainer, you can implement the following basic training tips right away to make the process easier.

Top 10 Dog Training Tips
These top 10 tips from professional dog trainers will help get you and your new pal on the right track.

Tip 1: Choose Your Dog's Name Wisely
Part of the fun of bringing home a new puppy or dog is finding the perfect name for them. But did you know certain names are better for training? It helps to consider a short name ending with a strong consonant that they can always hear clearly. A strong ending, like in the names “Jasper,” “Jack” and “Ginger,” perks up puppy ears — especially when you place emphasis at the end. If your new pet is an older dog, they’re probably used to their name at this point. However, changing it isn’t out of the question. And if your new pal is coming out of an abusive situation, a new name may even represent a fresh start. Dogs are extremely adaptable. If you decide to give them a new name, use it consistently and soon enough your pup will respond to it. Whatever their name, be sure to associate it with fun, pleasant experiences as much as possible, rather than negative ones. Ideally, your pup should think of their name in the same way they think of other fun stuff like walks or dinnertime.

Tip 2: Decide on the House Rules
Before your new furry pal comes home, decide what they can and can’t do. Are they allowed on the bed or the furniture? Are parts of the house off limits? Will they have their own chair at your dining table? If the rules are determined early, you can avoid confusion — for both of you.

Tip 3: Set Up a Private Den
Like humans, dogs need their own space. As early as possible, give your pup their own private sleeping place, such as a crate. Your dog will benefit from short periods left alone in the comfort and safety of their den; it can also be a valuable tool for housetraining. Be sure to reward your puppy or dog if they remain relaxed and quiet in their den.

Tip 4: Help Your Dog Relax
When your puppy gets home, give them a warm hot-water bottle and put a ticking clock near their sleeping area. This imitates the heat and heartbeat of litter mates and will soothe your puppy in their new environment. This tip may be even more important for a new dog that previously lived in a busy, loud shelter, particularly if they’ve had a rough time early in life. Whatever you can do to help your new pet get comfortable in their forever home will be good for both of you.

Tip 5: Reward Good Behavior
Reward your puppy or dog’s good behavior with positive reinforcement. Use toys, love and lots of praise — and don’t forget the treats. Let them know when they’re getting it right. Along those same lines, never reward bad behavior, as it’ll only confuse them.

Tip 6: Teach Your Pup to Come
When Called Come, Jasper! Good boy! The first command you teach your pet should be to come. Get down on their level and tell your pup to come using their name. When they do, get excited and use lots of positive reinforcement. Next time, try the “come” command when they’re distracted with food or a toy. As your puppy gets older, you’ll continue to see the benefits of perfecting this command.

Tip 7: Train on "Dog Time"
Puppies and dogs live in the moment — two minutes after they’ve done something, they’ve already forgotten about it. So when your pup is doing something bad, use your chosen training technique right away so they have a chance to make the association between the behavior and the correction. Consistent repetition will reinforce what they’ve learned.

Tip 8: Discourage Jumping Right Away
Puppies love to jump up in greeting, and some adult dogs have learned bad habits. When your puppy or dog jumps on a person, don’t reprimand them; just turn your back on them, ignore the behavior and wait until they settle down before giving positive reinforcement. Never encourage jumping behavior by patting or praising your dog when they’re in a “jumping up” position.

Tip 9: Say No to Biting and Nipping
Instead of scolding your new pet, a great way to discourage your mouthy canine is to pretend you’re in a lot of pain when they bite or nip you — a sharp, loud yell should work. Most dogs are so surprised that they stop immediately. If verbal cues don’t work, try trading a chew toy for your hand or pant leg. This swap trick can also work when a puppy discovers the joys of chewing on your favorite shoes. They tend to prefer a toy or bone anyway. If all else fails, interrupt the biting behavior and respond by ignoring them.

Tip 10: End Training Sessions on a Positive Note
Your puppy or dog has worked hard to please you throughout their training. Leave them with lots of praise, a treat, some petting or five minutes of play. This almost guarantees they’ll show up at their next class or training session with their tail wagging, ready to work!

Bonus tip:
When your puppy is old enough, think about getting them neutered or spayed. The same goes if you adopt a dog. A neutered or spayed dog might be more docile, less aggressive and more open to successful training.

If those pups could talk, they would tell you a few important things. Here's what you should know before you take home your new furry BFF.

When you make the decision to adopt a shelter dog, it’s hard to contain your excitement. You’re anxious to visit the shelter, scoop up your new pup, and smother him with all the love and attention he deserves. That shelter dog also longs to be in a forever home with you, but it’s not always quite that simple. Embarking on this second chance may be more of a process for your new pet than you realize. Here’s what shelter dogs want you to know (with a little help from some canine experts).

I might be super excited to see you
Keep in mind that I may have been in a kennel for a long time, and anything that I see or experience is going to be new and exciting! Hey, did I mention that I’m excited?!

While some dogs may be timid when you visit the shelter, others may jump up on you or bark a lot. But don’t let a dog’s unbridled enthusiasm scare you off. Derek Panfil, Senior Vice President of Merchandising at Pet Supplies Plus, which also supports the efforts of its local stores with adoption programs, says it usually takes at least two weeks for a dog to decompress and get accustomed to a new home. After that, pet parents can slowly incorporate new lessons and further teach expected behavior. “With proper positive training and a little time and patience, dogs can learn to remain calm in exciting situations,” says Panfil. No pet lover will want to miss these before-and-after dog-adoption photos that will melt your heart.


I might be a little scared
Adoption events can be chaotic in general, so think about how loud and scary it can be for dogs like me.

That little cutie cowering in the corner of his crate wants a forever home, but he’s too scared to show you. Just like people, it can take a little time for dogs to warm up. “It doesn’t mean the dog isn’t social or that it wouldn’t make a great family dog,” says Panfil. If possible, get away from the commotion and find a quiet area to spend time with the dog, or take him on a short walk. Keep in mind that it may take more than one meet and greet for the dog to feel safe and secure with you. Panfil says sometimes that means taking the dog home with you and giving him a few weeks to adjust. Despite this, dogs are brave–these pups even saved their owners’ lives.


We want to stay with our pet siblings
The shelter has kept us together because it’s all we have left of our previous life.

People tend to surrender dogs and their “siblings” to shelters for a few common reasons. They include unexpected circumstances like the death of a pet parent, a loss of income, or not being able to find a home that allowed dogs. You might not have planned to adopt two dogs, but you may want to consider opening your home to a bonded pair. This special situation also offers some wonderful advantages. “You’re not only preventing the dogs from losing another family member—you’re also getting two dogs who already get along and can help each other ease the transition to a new home,” says Lindsay Hamrick, the Companion Animals Public Policy Director for the Humane Society of the United States. Here are 20 things to consider before adopting a dog from a shelter.


The shelter might not know my breed
I’m an individual, no matter what breed or mixed breed I am.

Some animal shelters label dogs, but it’s only an educated guess. Even veterinarians can guess the wrong breed. “Another issue is that ‘pit bull’ is not actually a breed and has become a shelter catchall for many dogs,” says Bernice Clifford, Director of Behavior and Training at the Animal Farm Foundation. Remember that a dog’s personality is more important than a label. To figure that out, spend time with the dog and include all the family members before making a decision. If the previous family surrendered the dog, ask questions about his behavior and lifestyle. “A great predictor of future behavior is previous behavior in a similar situation,” says Clifford. All dogs, just like all people, are individuals. Don’t miss these pit bull “facts” that are totally wrong.


I might need time to adjust to your cat or kids
Just because I’ve never been around kids or other pets, it doesn’t mean that I won’t love them—in time.

When an animal’s history is known, the shelter will clearly state whether that dog would prefer to be the only pet or live without young children. For the times when past experiences aren’t known, bring the whole family for a visit, if possible. While this doesn’t guarantee behavior once you get home, it does give you an opportunity to observe how the dog and kids interact with one another.

And once your new dog is home, take it slow. “Teach children how to interact and be respectful of their new pet while everyone gets comfortable with each other,” says Clifford. “Set up baby gates and use a crate in the beginning when your new family member cannot be supervised.” Do the same with furry siblings. “Existing pets and new pets need time to adjust to each other,” explains Clifford. “When not supervising, separate the pets until everyone is comfortable with each other.”


I would love a second chance at happiness
My life hasn’t been a happy one. I’ve been neglected and abused, but with a little patience and compassion, I could be a loyal companion for life.

Some shelter dogs have been rescued from known abuse and neglect. Other dogs arrive at shelters as strays, so it’s impossible to know their background. What is known: These dogs want a forever home where they can be loved and give love. “If you’re adopting a shy or fearful dog, it’s important to take things slowly and let them go at their own pace,” says Krista Maloney, a spokesperson for the San Francisco SPCA. “Don’t force them into situations that they find scary, which can just make matters worse. Build confidence through environmental enrichment, practicing new skills, and positive experiences.” Need some help training your new dog? It’s so much easier when you know these secrets from dog-trainer pros.


I may be on the older side, but I’ve still got a lot to offer
I know, I know—puppies are irresistibly cute. But you won’t have to puppy-proof your house if you take me home, and I won’t eat your slippers!

“Older dogs are slower and need less exercise and more love,” says Sherri Franklin, the founder and CEO of Muttville. “They are happy to chill with you and binge-watch your favorite TV shows.” In fact, Muttville’s fastest-growing program is its Senior for Seniors program, which pairs senior citizens with senior dogs. But senior dogs don’t necessarily want to spend their days lounging and napping either. You can still teach an old dog new tricks. Franklin’s own adopted Pomeranian never played with toys, but at 15 years young, she now plays fetch. The bottom line: Older dogs can be ideal companions in almost any home.


I might get separation anxiety when you bring me home
Can you blame me? When I was surrendered to the shelter, I felt abandoned, and I’m afraid of being left again. Jodi Andersen, author of The Latchkey Dog: How the Way You Live Shapes the Behavior of the Dog You Love and co-founder of How I Met My Dog, says separation anxiety is not uncommon in shelters dogs. Dogs are pack animals and feel the most secure and comfortable when they are physically close to their human family. Start to build trust with the following tip from Andersen. “Toss a treat to your dog as you walk out the door. Then turn around, come back in, and walk right past your dog,” she says. “Do this several times a day and your dog will begin to trust that you always come back and actually to look forward to—instead of stressing about—your leaving.” Here are 30 things your dog wishes you knew.


I might backslide on my potty habits
My new home is really different from the shelter. We were on a schedule there, and I knew when and where I could go potty.

“It can be disorienting for a dog to have to learn a new routine,” says Kim Agricola, director of Medfield Animal Shelter in Medfield, Massachusetts. Set up your new furbaby for success by taking her outside frequently for the first few weeks, then praising her when she goes potty. When you can’t supervise your dog, confine her to a small area or crate. Then establish a routine. “Take them out first thing in the morning, after meals, before bed, and any time they have been confined or sleeping for more than a few hours,” advises Agricola. “Be consistent and stick to a routine, and in a matter of weeks, they should adjust to the new schedule.” It might not be immediate, but there are definitely some surprising benefits of adopting shelter dogs.


I might hide when we get home
When I lived at the shelter, there was nowhere to hide when I felt scared and anxious.

“The first thing a shelter pup might do in a new home is to run to find a dark, safe spot to hide,” says Andersen. This may surprise some people. After all, shouldn’t the dog immediately feel safe since your home is clearly better than a shelter? Think of it this way: Anything new is different and potentially frightening. “Patience and gentle affection are needed to help this pup,” says Andersen. “Let your new dog have all the time he/she needs to feel comfortable, and be affectionate whenever they choose to come to you. Soon enough, they will think of you, not the hiding place, as the safe spot.”


Don’t go overboard buying stuff for me just yet
It’s important to keep my diet consistent for the first few weeks after we leave the shelter to prevent an upset stomach.

“The shelter staff will be able to tell you what your dog has been eating,” says Hamrick. “In a few weeks, you can gradually introduce him to a new food as long as he doesn’t have allergies.” With so many dog foods on the market, it’s hard to choose the right one. Narrow your search by checking out the dog foods veterinarians feed their own pets.


Don’t dote on me too much
I get it—you don’t want me to feel unloved again. But if you shower me with too much attention right away, it could stress me out.

Any major life change, like a new home, can trigger separation-related issues. But as tempting as it is to spend every waking minute with your new furbaby, dial back your affection a bit. “Newly adopted dogs are at a higher risk of developing separation-related problems if they are smothered with attention their first few days home,” says Hamrick. “Leave for the room for brief periods, up to a few minutes several times a day, so departure doesn’t seem like a big deal.”


Let’s party later
I’m so happy that you decided to adopt me. But for the first few weeks, please give me some time to adjust to my new life.

When you’re smitten with your new dog, you want to share the joy with everyone. But save the trips to the dog park, pet store, and family introductions for later. “Your dog would love a safe place in the home to call their own and to retreat to when they feel overwhelmed,” says Hamrick. “As they start to come out of their shell, they can meet your friends or their dogs in situations where they can walk away if they’re uncomfortable.” More than toys and treats, these are the things your dog really wants from you.

Now I have arrived at your home, everything is strange, and I don’t’ feel good.

Do not feel impatient if I don’t sleep in my new basket.
Yesterday, I slept on a stone floor.

Do not be terrified if I gobble up my food.
Yesterday, I had to do it to survive.

Do not be angry if I pee on your floor.
Yesterday, it didn’t matter.

Do not be sad if I am afraid of your loving hand. Yesterday, I did not have one.

Have patience with me, it’s your world,
But not yet mine.

If I trust you, I can give you the greatest Gift I have to give…..
My heart.

Please never forget, I was a pound dog.
All I need, is a bit of time to adjust.

Source: Petfinder

Bringing home a shelter dog that you adopt may be a rescued stray or a dog that someone has voluntarily surrendered for adoption.

Whether he was born in the bushes behind the laundromat or an adolescent abandoned on the streets by his onceupon-a-time owner, the streetwise stray can be a real challenge to incorporate into your life. The famous “he followed me home, can I keep him, Mom?” canine is a special animal that needs time and space, patience, and understanding.

The first few days in your home are special and critical for a pet. Your new dog will be confused about where he is and what to expect from you. Setting up some clear structure with your family for your dog will be paramount in making as smooth a transition as possible.

Bringing a puppy home, they need more than just a bed and a food bowl to thrive. They also need constant care and attention. While a puppy’s first night at home may require a lot of work initially, it’s well worth the effort down the road. Establishing good habits in those first weeks will lay the groundwork for a lifetime of happiness for you and your dog. Remember, you have a responsibility to help your puppy grow into a happy and healthy dog. Here are some tips for puppy care to help first-time dog owners get started:


Before You Bring Your Dog Home:

• Determine where your dog will be spending most of his time. Because he will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from a shelter or foster home to your house), he may forget any housebreaking (if any) he’s learned. Often a kitchen will work best for easy clean-up.

• If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home. Find out more about crate training your dog.

• Dog-proof the area where your pooch will spend most of his time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.

• Training your dog will start the first moment you have him. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn his commands more quickly. Not sure which commands to use? Check out How to Talk to Your Dog.

• Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that he has an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If he is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip’s company, if the rescue or shelter did not already do so.

First Day:

• We know moving is stressful — and your new dog feels the same way! Give him time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing him to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming him. Go here for more on introducing dogs and children.

• When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when he was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new. For more information about your dog’s diet, check out our section on Dog Nutrition.

• On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having him in a safe place will make the trip home easier for him and you.

• Once home, take him to his toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with him so he will get used to the area and relieve himself. Even if your dog does relieve himself during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds can throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case. Need more housetraining tips? Check out our Dog Housetraining section.

• From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting, and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort him if he whines when left alone. Instead, give him attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly (Source: Preparing Your Home For A New Dog).

• For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, but it will also give you more one-on-one time to get to know him and his likes/dislikes.

• If he came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled-up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs, and sticks are just some of the pieces of “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect. Or maybe he led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.

• Keep him off balconies, elevated porches, and decks. Keep all cleaning supplies, detergents, bleach, and other chemicals and medicines out of the puppy’s reach, preferably on high shelves.

• Remove poisonous houseplants, such as amaryllis, mistletoe, holly, or poinsettia, or keep them in hanging baskets up high, where your puppy cannot reach them.

• Keep toilet lids closed, unplug electrical cords and remove them from the floor, and keep plastic bags and ribbons out of your puppy’s reach.

Following Weeks:

• People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog may be a bit uneasy at first as he gets to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of him as well as what he can expect from you.

• After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language to be sure he’s having a good time — and is not fearful or a dog park bully. If you’re unsure of what signs to watch for, check out this video on safety at the dog park.

• To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time, and attention he needs. You’ll be bonded in no time! For more information on creating a feeding schedule for your dog visit How Often Should You Feed Your Dog?

• If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles. Visit Dog Training for more information on reward-based training.

• Bring your puppy to the veterinarian for regular checkups. Talk to your veterinarian about any signs of illness that you should watch out for during your puppy’s first few months.

• Ensure Your Puppy Receives Proper Nutrition. Your puppy also needs complete and balanced nutrition to help him grow properly. In fact, the first year of his life is critical in ensuring the proper growth of his bones, teeth, muscles, and fur. As a growing animal, he’ll require more calories than an adult dog. Read the labels, and find a food that has been specifically created to ensure the proper balance of protein and fat for a puppy. Check the food package for the recommended feeding schedule and serving size. Never feed your puppy bones, table scraps, or big snacks in between meals.

Responsibilities for the Parents of the Newly Adopted Dog:
Courtesy of Rondout Valley Kennels, Inc. (Sue Sternberg suesternberg.com)

1. Never, ever leave a child alone with your new dog. Not even for a second to turn your head and answer the phone. The type of relationship we see on TV between children and dogs is a fantasy, and not a reflection of what real dogs can be like with children.

2. No one in the family should be encouraging rough play, wrestling, or the dog to play with his mouth on human body parts or clothes. This is especially relevant when an adult member of the household plays with the dog in this manner, because when the child next excites the dog, the dog may be stimulated to play in the same rough manner, thereby putting the child at risk for injury.

3. Your dog should be fed his meals in an area completely protected from and away from children, as much for a bit of peace and privacy as it is to prevent guarding behaviors. The dog should also be fed portions that are quickly finished, so there is nothing left in the bowl for the dog to linger over and guard. Empty bowls should be taken up and put away, so the dog won’t consider guarding the feeding area.

4. Most children are not bitten by their own dog, but by a friend or neighbor’s dog. This means two things: watch your own dog closely when your child has a friend (or friends) over. Many dogs will tolerate a lot from their own family’s child, but not tolerate a visiting child. Visiting children often do not behave as well as, or may behave differently from your own children, and could bother or provoke your dog. Consequently, if your child’s friends have dogs, you need to, (as a responsible parent) go over and meet the friend’s dog BEFORE you allow your child to visit their house. It is a good idea to see the size and general nature of your child’s friend’s dog, and check to see if the owner of this dog will allow unsupervised interaction between the children and the dog, to ask where and when the dog is fed, and to check if there are any chewable toys or bones lying around, and then to either request that they be picked up and put away while your child visits, or ensure that their dog has no possessiveness problems.



When to Phone the Shelter for Advice:

• Any signs of physical rough play from the dog towards the child
• Any signs of displays of rough, physical strength from the dog towards the child
• Any growling (even during play)
• Any snapping or nipping
• Any humping or mounting of the child OR adults
• Any avoidance or resentment of physical contact (dog backs off or leaves the room when child hugs or pets or gets close to your dog.)
• Any signs the dog is afraid of the child (your dog backs away or tries to escape when the child appears or gets close.)
• Your dog seems “jealous” of intimacy or physical affection between parents or especially between child and parent (the dog barks or cuts in between people during intimacy.)
• Any signs the dog is guarding his food bowl, his bones, his toys, or “stolen” items (the dog may tense up, freeze, stiffen, growl, snap, show his teeth, snarl, or just give a ‘hairy eyeball’ to anyone approaching or coming to near his item.
• Your dog seems out of control or disobedient and “wild” with children who are playing or running around.

Remember that with proper puppy care, your new pet will grow into a happy, healthy dog — and provide you with love and companionship for years to come.

If your newly adopted dog is showing signs of Kennel Cough or any other illness within 10 days of adopting, call us at (928) 753-2727 or bring the dog back to the shelter as soon as possible!

Symptoms of Kennel Cough in a Dog

• A persistent dry cough is the most common symptom
• Coughing throughout the night that keeps them awake
• Retching
• Watery nasal discharge

Kennel Cough is contagious towards other dogs, so try to keep any other dogs you may have separate.

Thinking of adopting a cat? First, check out these helpful tips, gathered by American Humane.

1. If you’re thinking about adopting a cat, consider taking home two. Cats require exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction. Two cats can provide this for each other. Plus they’ll provide more benefits to you. Cats’ purring has been shown to soothe humans as well as themselves – and they have an uncanny ability to just make you smile. A great place to start your search is online. Sites like petfinder.com let you search numerous shelters in your area simultaneously to help narrow your search and more quickly find the match that’s right for you and your new feline friend.

2. Find a cat whose personality meshes with yours. Just as we each have our own personality, so do cats. In general, cats with long hair and round heads and bodies are more easygoing than lean cats with narrow heads and short hair, who are typically more active. Adoption counselors can offer advice to help you match the cat’s personality with your own.

3. Pick out a veterinarian ahead of time and schedule a visit within the first few days following the adoption. You’ll want to take any medical records you received from the adoption center on your first visit. Kittens in particular should accompany you to make the appointment – even before the exam itself – so staff can pet the cat and tell you that you’ve chosen the most beautiful one ever.

4. Make sure everyone in the house is prepared to have a cat before it comes home. Visiting the shelter or animal control facility should be a family affair. When adopting a new cat with existing pets at home, discuss with the adoption facility how to make a proper introduction.

5. Budget for the short- and long-term costs of a cat. Understand any pet is a responsibility and there’s a cost associated with that. A cat adopted from a shelter is a bargain; many facilities will have already provided spaying or neutering, initial vaccines, and a microchip for permanent identification.

6. Stock up on supplies before the cat arrives. Be prepared so your new cat can start feeling at home right away. Your cat will need a litter box, cat litter, food and water bowls, food, scratching posts, safe and stimulating toys, a cushy bed, a brush for grooming, a toothbrush and nail clippers.

7. Cat-proof your home. A new cat will quickly teach you not to leave things lying out. Food left on the kitchen counter will serve to teach your new friend to jump on counters for a possible lunch. Get rid of loose items your cat might chew on, watch to ensure the kitten isn’t chewing on electric cords, and pick up random items like paper clips (which kittens may swallow).

8. Go slowly when introducing your cat to new friends and family. It can take several weeks for a cat to relax in a new environment. It’s a great idea to keep the new addition secluded to a single room (with a litter box, food and water, toys, and the cat carrier left out and open with bedding inside) until the cat is used to the new surroundings; this is particularly important if you have other pets. If you’ve adopted a kitten, socialization is very important. But remember – take it slow.

• Cats are territorial, and coming into a new home leaves them feeling really uneasy. There’s all that unexplored space, and who knows what may lurk there. Do him a favor and provide a small area to call his own for the first few days or weeks. A bathroom or laundry room works well. Furnish the room with cat amenities, such as food, water and a litter box. You’ll want to spend time with your cat, so make sure there’s a comfortable place for you to sit as well.
• Fill a litter box with one or two inches of litter and place it in his room where he can use it undisturbed. After all, everyone deserves a modicum of privacy when pottying, and giving him that will help forestall litter box aversion.
• Set up a feeding station with food and water bowls. Locate it away from the litter box.
• Cats love to get away from it all in small places, and you can provide one for your new cat as his own little safe haven. If he came home in a cat carrier, that might be a good choice. You can also make one by cutting a doorway for her in the end of a box. If you prefer, you can buy a covered cat bed at a pet supply store. In either case, make sure the space is big enough for the cat to stand up and turn around in. Cat “feng shui” probably requires that he or she be able to see the door to the room from his hidey hole, so he won’t be startled.
• A cat’s claws need to be worn down, and they do this by scratching on things. Since you prefer that it not be your chairs and sofa, provide your cat with a socially acceptable scratching place. Some types are made of corrugated cardboard and lie on the floor; others are posts which have to be tall enough so that the cat can extend himself upward to scratch. You can encourage your cat (once he has arrived) to use the post by sprinkling it with catnip or dangling a toy at the top. He’ll get the idea. You’ll probably want a scratching post in each room where there is soft furniture, perhaps blocking access to it. You can also install sticky tape (available at pet supply stores) to corners of upholstered furniture to dissuade scratching.
• Look at your house with a curious cat’s eye view for its climbing and exploring potential. When your cat is acclimated to your home, you may be surprised to find him on top of the upper kitchen cabinets, so make sure there’s nothing on display there or on other high shelves that can be damaged or knocked off. ? Look for holes or registers that leave ductwork accessible and cover them up. A kitten can easily slither into one of these. You won’t want firemen in the house, jackhammering the concrete floor to extract your cat.
• If possible, buy a cat tree for your new family member. Cats like to survey their territory, so a high perch is often a favored resting place.
• If there are other human family members, go over the ground rules about your new pet. Remind them not to startle him and to keep the door to his room shut.
• Bone up on how to introduce your cat to other pets. Keep her door closed and don’t let your other pet race in unexpectedly. 

• Sit on the floor and let her come to you. Don’t force her. Just let her get acquainted on her own time. If she doesn’t approach, leave her alone and try again later. Some cats are particularly frightened, and she may retreat to her hidey hole and not come out when you’re around at all. She may only come out at night when the house is quiet. Give her time.
• Your newly adopted cat may not eat much or at all at first. It’s best to give your cat the same food she had at the shelter or in her foster home, at least at first. Keeping some things familiar will make her feel more secure. Be sure to change her water frequently and make sure that she is drinking. If your cat hasn’t eaten for a few days, call your vet to ask for advice.

• Within a week of being adopted, take your newly adopted cat for her first wellness visit with a veterinarian. If you have a record of immunizations from the shelter, take it with you. Don’t have a vet? Check out these tips for finding the right vet for you and your cat.
• As your cat adjusts, she’ll show signs that she wants to explore outside her safe haven. Make sure other pets or family members won’t startle her while she gradually expands her territory. She may be ready to play, so you can furnish some toys. Many cats like feather wands from the pet supply store, but homemade toys are often favored. A wad of a tissue paper to bat around or a paper bag to hide in can be fun. Congratulations! If you follow these tips, you’ll be on your way to having a well-adjusted feline family member.

If your newly adopted cat is showing signs of Feline Upper Respiratory Infection or any other illness within 10 days of adopting, PLEASE CALL US at (928) 753-2727 or bring the feline back to the shelter as soon as possible!

Feline Upper Respiratory Infection is contagious towards other cats, so try to keep any other cats you may have separate.

Symptoms of Feline Upper Respiratory Infection include:

• Constant Sneezing
• Running Nose and/or Eyes
• Sores on tongue, lips, nose, or roof of mouth
• Fever
• Decreased Energy, Lethargy